Friends of Friends in Italy

Friends here have friends in Arezzo who run a business just outside the city walls. Family-owned and run, its a very nice store that sells just about any type of Italian café, pastry, gelato, chocolate or wine someone could want. When my friends here told their friend (Stefano) in Arezzo that we were planning a visit to the area, he insisted we come by the store, and said he would like to include us in an activity he had planned.
Stefano had gathered a group of Italian friends for an outing – and graciously invited us to join them. How can you possibly turn down such a sincere, personal invitation?


Stefano said we needed to be at the store between 9 and 9:30am. We - being American - arrived promptly at 9:00. Obviously, we have not yet learned the art of Italian time being ‘merely a suggestion’! He and his wife served us a cappuccino and pastry – and we politely waited. Thirty minutes later, Stefano asked us “would you like a tour of our cellar?” … well of course we would!! He took us across the street and down stairs to the original cellar his family had built when the store first opened. Stefano gave us a history lesson of who first started bottling wine in Italy for sale – and showed us several bottles of wine, some very old, some with sentimental value to their family, as well as some of high monetary value! By the time we finished with the cellar tour and walked back across the street it was almost 10:30, and the Italians for the group outing had just arrived. So, the time suggestion of 9am to Americans turned out to be 10:30 to Italians …we have so much to learn!

Gathering the group together, we loaded into Stefano’s van and headed out to the hills of Tuscany. A winery had invited Stefano to tour their facility and we were along! Set in the heart of Chianti Classico region of Tuscany, the views from the vineyard were absolutely breathtaking. Picture postcard perfect – rolling hills topped with small cities, the hills and valleys below were the typical patchwork vineyards with rows of grapes going in various directions. Each bordered by muted green orchards of olive trees and other fruit. Other typical Tuscan farms and houses scattered across the hills. BEAUTIFUL! It was harvest time, and harvest was in full swing.

Production is from grapes coming from their own vineyards, all picked by hand. Different varieties of grapes, processed at different times, the juice going into various vats, then aged barrels, then into bottles … a very interesting and detailed process. Throughout our visit, we had the opportunity to meet several family members who run the vineyard – all very gracious and seemingly very happy to have us there.

The day also included – LUNCH! But this was to be no ordinary lunch. We drove down the hill a short distance to the town of Lucarelli., to a small road side place; Osteria Le Panzanelle. We sat at a large table outside, and before long the procession of food began. Appetizers included Broccoli soufflé, eggplant w/ ricotta, Toscano salami, finnoccio salami, prosciutto, and several other types of meats. The primo course was next – 3 pastas; Papaerdelle with rabbit, Penne with meat sauce, Pici (hand made spaghetti) with egg & parmesan cheese. At this point we were STUFFED! I turned to Rosella and said, “This was a wonderful and most enjoyable meal” … to which she replied “Oh no, we are not yet finished, we must have bisteccia!”! With that, the procession of food continued: Bisteccia (thick, grilled steak), grilled vegetables, fried potatoes, and mixed salad. And to wrap up the meal; a section of pecorino cheese (3 ages) with fig jam and honey – HEAVEN!

Following our wonderful lunch we returned to the winery to say our goodbyes before returning to Arezzo. The conversation migrated from the vineyard to the terra cotta pots the family is also produces, to another passion they had – Chiania cows.

Proudly we were asked if we would like to see their cows. Before we were able to translate the inquiry, we were loaded into the Land Rover and headed down road. The road shortly turned into a rough trail that lead us through the vineyards, down the valley to the stable where the cows were peacefully enjoying their late lunch. If you are not familiar with Chianina, it is the largest and one of the oldest existing beef cattle breeds in the world. The famous bistecca alla fiorentina is produced from its meat. They were proud to share with us about their herd of Chianina.